Hood missing? Attach it – in 6 steps!
Never freeze again, never have a cold neck again & 100% COZY.
This way, the hood fits any sewing pattern.
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Perhaps you can feel it! You've lovingly and painstakingly sewn yourself a coat or jacket. The fabric is exactly your style – soft, warm, in your favorite color. The fit is perfect, you're proud, and you're ready to wear your creation on the first autumn walk. And then it happens: wind on your neck. The walk is lovely, but that unpleasant feeling of cool air constantly pulling down your back lingers.
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This little extra is often missing – and this very detail would not only make your sewing project more perfect, but also weatherproof. A hood is more than just a piece of fabric; it's protection, comfort, and often even a stylish element that completely transforms the look. And sometimes it's a cozy little hideaway, because every now and then you need that even without drizzle or autumn winds. 
* Bolero #KAPA / With & without hood, an absolute favorite and suitable for beginners.
Why is the hood so often missing from sewing patterns?
The answer is simple: not every sewing pattern includes a hood. Often, this is a conscious design choice. Some patterns opt for collars to create a classic look. Others aim to emphasize vintage charm, where a hood simply doesn't fit the style. Sometimes it's a matter of fabric consumption or ease of sewing.
Let's take my own sewing patterns as an example: Not all of them have a hood. With the Isadora blazer, I deliberately opted for a classic collar to maintain the elegant lines. With the Flokis Jakka cardigan, however, the hood is an integral part of the design, giving the pattern its cozy, Nordic character and thus creating a unique version.
As a designer and pattern maker, I've heard this countless times:
"I love the cut – but it's a shame it doesn't have a hood."
And that's exactly why I'm writing this guide today. So that you never have to go without a hood again, no matter the pattern or designer.
* Vintage coat #GRETE / Masterpiece including online course & a dream for every hood.
Of course, I have many sewing patterns with integrated hoods in my range. But perhaps you'd like to upgrade your favorite pattern. Maybe there's a garment in your closet that you've loved for a long time, but that simply doesn't offer enough protection on cold days.
In 6 simple steps I'll show you how to construct a perfectly fitted hood – without guesswork, without expensive additional patterns.
The good news: You don't need a professional workshop
With a few measurements, some pattern paper and these instructions you can equip any jacket, cardigan and even dresses with a hood – fitting, functional and beautiful.
Tools & Equipment
→ Front and back pieces of your pattern (paper form, not a sewn version)
→ Flexible measuring tape
→ Use a pencil and eraser or colored pencils for the first construction.
→ Ruler & set square or tailor's square
→ Curve ruler (optional, but practical)
→ Cutting paper or packing paper / Ikea roll for kids = YEAH!
→ Fabric for the hood (outer fabric matching the garment, lining fabric optional)
→ Pins or clips
→ possibly sewing machine & overlocker
✂ Hint: Even if you don't have any special cutting tools, you can improvise. A large, smooth wooden board as a base, a simple tape measure, and a sharply pointed pencil are perfectly sufficient. 
*Cardigan #JAKKA / Vintage at its best & of course also with an optional hood.
00. DA BASE | Measuring is everything
The first step is to find the measurements on which your hood is based.
It must be adapted to both your body and the pattern .
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→ Measurement 01. → Measurement 02. Divide both values by 2 – these are the basic dimensions for the construction. ✂ Hint: For winter fabrics, it's best to allow for an extra 0.5–1 cm of seam allowance so that a scarf or braid can fit underneath. |
00. EVEN MORE MASS | Sandwiches
The first step is to find the measurements on which your hood is based.
It must be adapted to both your body and the pattern .
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In addition to the head measurements, you need the exact measurement of the neckline of your pattern. → Place the front and back pieces together at the shoulder seam along the seam line . → Measure the curve of the front piece with an upright measuring tape and note it down. → Measure the curvature of the back panel and note this down as well. → Determine the difference between the front and back pieces when you place them on top of each other. This measurement takes into account that the neckline is higher at the back. |
01. PAINTING BY NUMBERS | The Scaffold
The first step is to find the measurements on which your hood is based.
It must be adapted to both your body and the pattern .
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Now, using the measurements, draw a rectangle on your pattern paper – the grid in which your hood will be created. → Vertical line = Measurement 1 (height) → Horizontal line = Measurement 2 (Depth) Mark the beginning and end of both lines. Connect the points at right angles to form a perfect rectangle. Divide both values by 2 – these are the basic dimensions for the construction. |
02. CONSTRUCTION | TRANSFERRING MAIN MASS
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→ Measure the difference between the front and back pieces upwards at the lower right point and mark this point. → Draw a horizontal guideline across the entire width of the rectangle. → Start at the bottom left and mark off the curve measurement of the front piece along the guideline – this is how you determine the shoulder point. → From the shoulder point, you measure the curve of the back piece to the right. ✂ Hint: Work carefully here – even small deviations can affect the fit later. |
03. DRAWING | Shoulder area & auxiliary measurements
Since no body is angular, some play is involved here as well.
As shown in the picture, you connect the lower left corner to the chosen shoulder point and draw a small curve.
A change to this line also means that it may change slightly and the shoulder point may shift slightly, so measure and correct it, as well as the rounding dimension 02 measured from there on the auxiliary line, if necessary.
It's a matter of millimeters and knit fabrics will forgive you a lot, but you can score points here by measuring precisely and adjusting your curves as well.
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→ CONNECT FIRST MARKING: Trace the resulting line to the shoulder point in a slightly rounder shape and also round off the corner a little so that it fits nicely against the neckline. → In the next step, you mark half the distance from measurements 01 + 02, i.e., your rectangle. They will help you right away when drawing the hood and the curves in the upper area. |
04. QUADRAD RULES | A little helper in the corner
To give your hood a curve at the back of your head, mark a point in the upper area, which you can better determine using an auxiliary square.
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→ Draw a 1 cm square exactly in the right corner of your grid and draw a line over the corner and the square that extends 4 to 4.5 cm into your hood. The square is a simple way to mark the center without having to work with angles. Now you have all the important points and can draw your hood. ✂ Hint: If you have an angle handy, simply use it and mark the same distance, then without an auxiliary square. |
05. CONNECT | THE HOOD IS EMERGED
Next, connect the points as shown in the picture and shape them so that they are rounded at the back of the head and your shoulder line is also curved. You have some leeway here, as long as your curves don't deviate too much from the measurements.
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→ Back of head rounding: ✂ Hint. A button or snap closure can drastically change the look – from sporty to elegant. (The last sentence appears to be incomplete and possibly nonsensical. It likely refers to the depth of the hood.) |
06. LA HOOD | You designed it!
Your hood is finished, and before you cut it out, why not add the appropriate seam allowance for your sewing project and test it with a muslin model?
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Sewing in a hood ✂ Hint. If the hood tilts slightly backward when trying it on, the back of the head is too flat – draw in more of a curve. |
*Sweater & Dress #MYSTYLE / A raglan for autumn & an all-rounder for coziness.
FAILS | & how to avoid or fix them
Even with a well-planned hood, there are a few pitfalls that can affect the result. With my helpful tips , you can ensure that your hood not only looks good but also fits perfectly:
→ PROBLEM. Bottom edge too short
If the hood pulls at the neckline or wrinkles form, it is usually because the seam allowance was constructed too short.
✂ Solution: Measure the seam length on the pattern piece again exactly, adding 0.5–1 cm per side if necessary.
→ PROBLEM. Too flat in the back of the head
If the hood tilts backward when worn or lies tightly against the back of the head, it lacks roundness and volume.
✂ Solution: Slightly increase the roundness of the back of the head or add 1–1.5 cm at the top center.
→ PROBLEM. Lining too tight
If the lining pulls the hood inwards or creates ripples, it is usually too small.
✂ Solution: Cut lining pieces 0.5–1 cm wider or work from a slightly stretchable material.
→ PROBLEM. The leading edge is wavy or sticks out.
An unstable edge can ruin the overall look – especially with softly draping fabrics.
✂ Solution: Iron a narrow interfacing into the facing edge and guide it evenly while sewing.
→ PROBLEM. Unclean passport markings
If the front of the head, shoulder, and back of the head don't align properly, the hood will sit crooked.
✂ Solution: Carefully transfer all markings and secure them with a few basting stitches before sewing.
Plan 5 minutes for a quick check before cutting – you'll save this time two or three times over later when making corrections.
❥ If you'd like to delve deeper and understand, modify, and perfectly execute patterns like a designer, then join my online coat-making course . Here you'll not only learn how to sew a coat, but also how to flawlessly incorporate details like this hood into a masterpiece.
Have fun 'discovering the possibilities'!
Bless, Nikkes